Strong Signals

Icom IC-R10 & Opto Scount Interfacing

Home
Contents
 

IC-R10 Reaction Tuning with Opto Scout

by David Howard, N5GRK


Hey, well after some connectors and soldering (and eliminating some incorrect information), I have finally found the correct wiring that works for me CONSISTENTLY between the Icom R10 and the Opto Scout.

I thought it might save some of you the same headaches I've gone through for the past two days.

   Cable: Two conductor

   Icom R10 End: Stereo 3.5mm Plug.
                 Solder cable center conductor to both the tip and ring.
                 Solder cable ground to plug ground.
                 PLUGS INTO 3.5mm CI-V PORT ON RIGHT SIDE.

   Opto Scout End: Mono 2.5mm Plug.
                   Solder cable center conductor to tip.
                   Solder cable ground to plug ground.
                   PLUGS INTO 2.5mm CI-V PORT ON TOP SIDE

   Icom R10 User Settings:  1) CI-V Address - Any number;does not matter
                            2) CI-V Baud Rate - 9600 Baud
                            3) CI-V Transcieve (TRN) - ON
***Be sure the R10 is set in the VFO mode!***

Opto Scout User Settings: CI-V Selection upon initial power-up.

Notes: Opto had said numerous times both on the phone (see my long distance bill) and in their instruction manual, to use a mono 3.5mm plug to mono 3.5mm plug cable (Radio Shack 42-2420), then add a reduction audio adapter on the Scout end of the cable reducing the 3.5mm mono plug to a 2.5mm mono plug (Radio Shack 274-327).

Four issues of possible conflict to consider here:

  1. The Icom R10 receiver CI-V port on the right side of the radio is a STEREO jack, with data coming from the tip and ring. If you use a mono cable, you are shorting out the data on the ring with the ground connection (and you are going to have trouble!). Remember the jack is STEREO, NOT Mono. So why are you trying to use a Mono connector?

    Opto will argue with you that the cable they recommend does work, and yes it does (if you pull the connector ever so slightly out of the CI-V jack on the R10), thus avoiding a tight audio connection. But it is not reliable or reasonable. I tried it for four hours and I could sometimes actually make it work. But who has time to fool around with that problem? Why not build it right from the start?

  2. The added reduction adapter recommended by Opto on the Scout from 3.5mm to 2.5mm is another potential problem, just waiting to happen. It is adding additional stress on the jack on the Scout and added mass. Guess what will snap and break? The weakest link in the chain--the adapter. Now we've got to open the Scout and go dig it out.

    The additional audio adapter on the Scout makes the audio connection taller than the stubby antenna. Once again, it's going to break off--TRUST me on this one! By the way, if you misplace this audio adapter, how is all of this going to connect together since you don't have the right part? Murphy's Law.

    In theory, the simple answer from the manufacturer is good; looks great in the advertising photos. In reality, it is a PROBLEM waiting to happen.

    Why not just do it right the first time? In fact, you can build an extra cable, just in case you lose the first one (I know that's never happened to anyone). As Nike says, "Just do it!". You'll be glad you did.

  3. While I'm on my soapbox, the 3.5mm stereo plug sticking out of the CI-V jack on the right side of the Icom R10 receiver is somewhat bothersome, if not just troublesome in portable or mobile configurations. You could help yourself avoid this problem with a right angle 3.5mm stereo audio adapter (Radio Shack 274-372). This will keep the CI-V connection parallel to the body of the R10, and less likely to break off or become entangled.

  4. And, you DID purchase the correct Right Angle DC power cable, didn't you? It's the Icom OPC-254L (not to be confused with the OPC-254 "straight" power connector). Both power plugs work the same and are the same price. So why not choose the right angle connector? This will just help keep the DC power cable close to the body of the radio and avoid those WHOOPS!
To those of you who have asked or wondered, the combination works great and reliably. Just think--no special battery covers to purchase (a la 8000). No problems with the squelch (a la 8000-lots of people complaining about that lately). No aftermarket jack to be ordered or added on to the radio (a la 8000). It's all there, ready to work. I think the folks at Icom did some very nice work. My thanks for the added helpful technical information from Gary of Icom Amercia Customer Service.

Just one final observation. When your 8000 breaks under warranty, where are you going to send it for repair in the U.S.? No one has answered that question yet. At least with the R10 Icom unit, this is not a problem. You can get it repaired right here in the U.S., as well as other locations around the world.

So rather than risk your $$$$ being stuck in US Customs, give the Icom R10 some consideration!

David
N5GRK
Dallas, Texas

Copyright © 1997 by David D. Howard


Copyright © 2003 by Richard J. Wells Return to Home Page